I design and install home WiFi that actually covers every room — no dead zone in the back bedroom, no buffering on the TV, no dropped calls on the terrace. Surveyed, designed, cabled, installed and tuned by the same two of us, start to finish.
A rule of thumb for concrete Indian homes and their grounds, not a measurement — walls, layout and where the line enters change it a lot. The survey is how we find out for real.
Most people upgrade their broadband plan when the real problem is coverage. Speed arrives at your router; WiFi is what carries it to the room you're actually sitting in. Here's what I get called for.
Full bars in the living room, one bar where you actually sleep. Almost always router placement plus concrete and mirrors in the way — not your internet plan.
Speed test says 300 Mbps but the TV stalls every ten minutes. Usually a congested 2.4 GHz channel shared with the whole building, or a TV clinging to the wrong band.
You move from the study to the kitchen mid-meeting and the call freezes. Your phone is hanging on to a far-away radio instead of switching to the near one.
A cheap repeater halves your bandwidth and creates a second network your phone refuses to leave. Very common, very fixable.
Balconies, terraces, gardens and duplex staircases need a deliberate plan. Signal doesn't turn corners through a slab because you hoped it would.
Phones, laptops, TVs, cameras, speakers, robot vacuum, every smart bulb. The free box your provider gave you was never built for that load.
Signal strength is only half of it. What decides whether a video plays is how far that signal sits above the background noise — and in a building full of neighbouring networks, that gap closes long before the bars on your phone do.
Your phone shows how loud the signal is, not how clearly it can be heard over everything else in the air. Two flats can show identical bars and behave nothing alike.
A router indoors is allowed 100 mW here, and a device needs the signal to arrive above a usable floor. That leaves roughly 87 dB to spend — and five metres of air plus one reinforced concrete wall spends all of it.
The headline speed on the box uses the widest channel, and wide channels need a much better signal-to-noise margin before they carry anything at all. Two rooms away it drops quietly to a narrow channel and a fraction of the rate.
| What the signal crosses | Lost at 5 GHz |
|---|---|
| A reinforced concrete wall | 54 dB |
| A brick wall | 15 dB |
| Five metres of open air | 60 dB |
| A plasterboard partition | almost none |
| An open doorway | nothing |
Attenuation figures measured by NIST NISTIR 6055 on real specimens. The −67 dBm threshold is standard WLAN design practice for voice and video.
Your ISP provides the internet. I bring it to every room.
Anyone can screw a router to a wall. The difference between WiFi that works everywhere and WiFi that mostly works is the hour of measurement and planning that happens before anything is mounted.
I walk your home and measure real signal and interference room by room — including the corners you complained about. Wall material, layout, neighbouring networks and your ISP line all get checked.
A written plan before you spend anything: how many access points, exactly where they go, how they're fed, and the hardware that fits your home and your budget. You approve it, then we buy.
Neat, concealed LAN runs to each access point location. Wired backhaul is the single biggest difference between real coverage and a chain of repeaters fighting each other.
Ceiling and wall-mounted access points, installed flush and tidy — TP-Link Omada, Deco and EAP, or Ruijie Reyee — all configured as one seamless network with a single name and password.
Channel planning, transmit power, band steering, fast roaming, a guest network for visitors, IoT devices kept separate, and parental controls if you want them.
We re-measure after install and hand you the numbers. If something drifts later, you message us directly — the same people who designed it pick up.
From the first message to a home where every room is measured and passing. Most 2–4 BHK jobs finish in a single day on site.
Send me a WhatsApp with the size and layout of your home and where you feel the WiFi breaks.
~10 min · FreeI measure signal and interference room by room, check your existing hardware and the incoming line, and tell you what's actually wrong.
1–2 hours on siteA written plan — access point count, placement, cable routes, hardware list — and one fixed price. Nothing is bought until you say yes.
Within 1–2 daysCabling pulled and concealed, access points mounted, one network name across the whole home. Your devices reconnect on their own.
Usually one dayI walk the home again and re-measure every room — including the ones that failed — and tune until they pass. Then I show you the app.
Same dayAnd aftercare afterwards — you message us directly in the same WhatsApp chat, not a call centre.
OngoingI work with three lines I know inside out, so the configuration is right the first time and I can support it for years. Everything runs from one controller app on your phone.
Ask what suits my homeOmada access points, EAP ceiling units and Deco mesh — reliable, well-supported, easy to expand room by room.
UniFi access points and switches — the long-standing benchmark for clean ceiling hardware and a controller that keeps getting better.
Reyee access points and switches — strong coverage and value, especially for larger flats, duplexes and villas.
Home WiFi installation across Mumbai, Thane, Navi Mumbai and Panvel — flats, duplexes, villas and small offices such as clinics, studios and showrooms. If you're just outside these areas, ask anyway — I'll tell you honestly whether it's worth the travel.
It depends entirely on the size and construction of your home and how many access points it needs — a 2 BHK flat and a three-floor duplex are very different jobs. That's why I survey first and then give you one fixed price covering hardware and labour. No hourly billing, no surprises at the end.
Usually not. Whether you are on JioFiber, Airtel, ACT, Hathway or anything else, the plan in most homes I look at is already more than enough and the problem is purely coverage — the speed arrives at your router and then has to cross two concrete walls to reach you. Adding your provider's own mesh unit to that same weak path often changes very little. If your line genuinely is the bottleneck, I'll tell you that at the survey instead of selling you equipment you don't need.
Often yes. Plenty of jobs are just adding one or two well-placed access points behind your existing router. If the existing box really can't cope with your device count, I'll show you the numbers rather than just telling you to replace it.
Most 2–4 BHK homes are done in a single day, including cabling, mounting, configuration and room-by-room testing. Larger villas and duplexes with long cable runs can take two.
Some drilling is usually needed to run cable to access point locations. I route through existing conduits, ceilings and skirting wherever possible and keep everything concealed — you should see a small flat disc on the ceiling and nothing else.
Yes, small commercial spaces too — clinics, studios, showrooms, small offices. Same process: survey, design, install, tune.
You message us on the same WhatsApp chat. A lot of issues we can fix remotely through the controller; if it needs a visit, we come. You're not raising a ticket with a call centre — you're messaging the people who implemented it.
Most societies ask for written intimation before any drilling inside a flat, and many restrict noisy work to fixed hours or want the people coming in recorded at the gate. It is usually a formality rather than an obstacle. Tell me your society's rules when you message and I will work to them — including keeping the drilling inside whatever window you are allowed.
Yes, and it is worth treating as its own problem rather than hoping an indoor access point leaks enough signal through a door. Anything that has to sit outside needs an outdoor-rated unit and a cable entry that will not let water track back into the wall. Mumbai humidity and driven rain are hard on hardware that was only ever meant for a living room, so outdoor points get specified for outdoors.
Message me the size of your home and which rooms you feel have bad WiFi signal. I'll give you an honest read before anyone visits — and if you don't need me, I'll say so.
Pick whichever you like — this page will remember it. Light and dark is the button in the header.